Do I Need Replacement Cast Saw Blades

All blades will dull eventually. Some blade types and special treatments allow them to stay sharp longer (see below). Additionally, proper cutting technique, and allowing the blade to cool between cuts can significantly add life to the sharpness of the blade. Use the information below to help choose the correct replacement blades for your cast saw.

Which type of cast saw blade do I need?

Blade type is dictated by the material to be cut, budget, saw model and specific task. Untreated blades are designed for plaster only. Synthetic materials like fiberglass require special coatings or treatments to retain sharpness. Materials like concrete or metal tubings require treatments that may not be not suitable for cast removal at all.

Cast saw blade selection is a critical component of a successful cast removal system. There are several factors that contribute to making that selection:

Cast Saw Blade Attachment:

Pin Drive Attachment

Hex/Pin: Many of our blades have a combination hex/pin-drive attachment cutout. This means these blades may be attached to a saw with a standard hex drive shaft OR a standard pin-drive shaft. The hex shaft design of the saw allows the blade to be rotated 6 times to take advantage of more/smaller areas of sharpness as the user rotates it around the 360° of the blade as it dulls. A pin-drive shaft design will allow the same blade to be rotated 4 times over its lifetime. A pin drive offers fewer rotations for sharpness, but a larger sharp area when rotated. Pin drive: Many older American Ortho, Stryker, and even new HEBU saws have a pin-drive system. These saws can accept blades fitted for hex/pin or pin-drive. The reverse is not true: A hex-drive shaft may not accept a pin-drive only blade. Specialty shaft: Some of our saws have proprietary attachment design. For example, Oscimed saws will require a dedicated Oscimed blade; Stryker 940 saws require a blade specifically designed for the 940 model.

Material to be cut largely dictates the blade construction and/or coating required. All of our blades start with a stainless steel construction. Note that not all coatings and processes are available on all blades. Below are many of the processes and coatings we do offer, in order of performance, durability and longevity (1: lowest performance - 7: best performance) No coating or process: Usually the least expensive blade, a bare stainless blade will resist corrosion, and is ONLY suitable for cutting dry plaster. Plus: Our "Plus" blades undergo a special hardening and sharpening process to extend blade life. These blades are ONLY suitable for cutting dry plaster but will last longer than an untreated blade. Teflon: Provides a non-stick surface to reduce temperature buildup during use. Features a mid-grade coefficient of friction (.05-.2 COF) ; mid-grade heat resistance (up to 600°F). This is the first blade with treatment approved for plaster and fiberglass. Ion Nitride: Blades are treated with a nitride plasma bath strengthening and hardening the blade, and offering additional corrosion resistance. Titanium Nitride: An extremely hard ceramic coating that offers superior edge retention. It also offers a lower coefficient of friction than our Plus treatment (.4-.9 COF) to reduce heat buildup that can reduce the blade hardness. This blade offers the best balance of price and longevity for plaster and fiberglass use. Dictronite: Typically our most expensive blade, tungsten-disulfide is an ultra-low friction (.03 COF), high-temp (1200°F) coating that will not chip, flake or peel. Ideal for plastic; does not offer much performance increase over Titanium Nitride for plaster or fiberglass. Diamond: Extremely durable. Low coefficient of friction (.1-.2 COF); ultra-high temperature (1500°F). Used primarily for cutting concrete or lightweight metal tubings (eg.1/4" stainless line)

Stainless steel blade cutting plaster